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Chardonnay, “To Oak or Not to Oak?”

This year at Rappahannock Cellars, we made 3 vineyard designated Chardonnays:

  1. 2006 Meriwether Chardonnay – unoaked and no ML (malolactic fermentation)
  2. 2006 Glenway Chardonnay – fermented and aged in French and American oak barrels, +ML
  3. 2006 Chappelle Charlemagne Chardonnay – fermented and aged in French and American oak barrels, +ML

And we have yet another Chardonnay in the works! With so much Chardonnay harvested and wine made this year we have been thinking about the different styles that suit this varietal and the marketplace.

Since the 90′s in this country, oaked Chardonnay has been all the rage, and this style has influenced Chardonnay produced in other countries, notably Australia. Oaked Chardonnay is rich, pleasantly aromatic, and easily approachable, which helps explain its popularity.

Traditionally, old-world (French) Chardonnay is made without the influence of oak, in stainless steel tanks or otherwise neutral cooperage. ML may or may not be promoted in the wine, based on the winery’s discretion. The famous Chardonnay producing region in France is Chablis. These wines are characterized by a more distinctive acidity, more fruit/floral Chardonnay character, and other regional influences such as “minerality.”

While both styles have their positive attributes, it appears that the regional style differences will remain, at least for the time being. But is this a permanent thing? Will Americans develop a taste for Chablis? Will the French come around to oaked Chardonnay?

I personally love Chablis, and also a properly oaked Chardonnay. One where the oak complements and enhances the fruit character of the wine, where you can still taste the Chardonnay. But we don’t make wine to satisfy our own palates, we have to make wines for the uninitiated as well as to the connoisseur – a tall order.

Chardonnay is known as the varietal that can represent the widest range of styles for a single varietal. And that’s what we’ve tried to represent this year with our 2006 Chardonnays. We are anxious to hear what you think!

-Jason
Vintner of Rappahannock Cellars


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