Another harvest has come and gone and I finally have a chance to settle down and reflect on the past season. Although we started the year with an unusually warm winter, by in large 2008 was a typical Virginia season. We had average rain fall through most of the year, characterized by a cool and overcast spring, passing afternoon thundershowers through the summer months and threats of hurricanes in the late season. Add to that, warm summer nights and cool temperature’s during the final weeks of ripening and we have the classic Mid-Atlantic climate. Only meticulous and diligent work in the vineyards can provide quality fruit for winemaking under these conditions. Although disease pressure was high as a result of the spring and summer rains, we were able to stave off fruit rots and the mildews that threaten the foliage. This is very important to be able to leave the fruit on the vine late into the season and there by maximizing ripening potential. For obvious reasons, we would much rather make picking decisions based on quality parameters such as flavor development and sugar content than being forced to harvest due to poor fruit condition.
On the whole, I was very pleased with the quality of the fruit in 2008. Going through my records I find, with only a few exceptions, that all of our fruit came into the winery with text book numbers for sugar and pH and all the grapes were free of rot or botrytis. White grapes showed improved flavors in comparison to the 2007 vintage and the red varieties all had excellent color and flavor development. Yields were improved from the 2007 vintage which was affected by frost, poor fruit set and dehydration. Most blocks, however, were still below our target numbers. This was probably a result of cool, rainy conditions in the spring. When the vines are in their bloom stage, flowers on the grapevine require warm, dry weather for proper pollination.
A question was posed to me several weeks ago by our winemaker, Jason. Of the past three vintages; 2006, 2007 or 2008, which did I prefer? My answer was a resounding 2008!
When asked why, my response was this… While the 2006 vintage was a bumper crop and while quality parameters were good, they weren’t great. In contrast, 2007 was a remarkable year that provided equally remarkable fruit quality because of drought conditions throughout the year and severely reduced crop loads. By new world standards, 2007 was a vintage that for Virginia only comes once every ten or fifteen years. And thus, it was an anomaly. 2008 on the other hand was a very typical season for Virginia. Winegrowers across the state faced all of the challenges that our climate can provide. So, to have our fruit come in with quality parameters that might rival some of the best growing regions in Europe is a testament to what can be achieved in Virginia.
Our climate is not one that can produce wines like those of some other new world wine regions on a consistent basis. But with proper practices in the vineyard and the cellar, we can produce exceptional wines more in line with those of the old world. For this winery, I see 2008 as a looking glass into the future of Virginia wine.
Cheers,
Tom Kelly
